Furniture Selection and Care Tips

• Choosing and Caring for Upholstered Furniture
• Know Your Leather and What You're Paying For

Choosing and Caring for Your Upholstered Furniture: Big-ticket items demand special attention

The upholstered furniture in your house, from sofas and chairs to the mattresses on your beds, are usually big-ticket household investments. For this reason, it pays to understand the basics of furniture fabrics and construction before you buy and to take good care of your furniture once you take it home.

Choosing Upholstered Furniture

Upholstered furniture is composed of three elements: frame, support system and fabric cover. Furniture prices generally vary depending on the quality of these elements.

Fabric

Upholstery fabrics are tough as well as good-looking. Blends of natural and manufactured fibers, treated to block stains, make upholstery longwearing and easy to clean. Here are some fibers and their common characteristics.

Natural Fabrics

• Cotton - This natural fiber provides good resistance to wear, fading and pilling, but is less resistant to soiling and wrinkling. Surface treatments and blending with other fibers often compensate for these weaknesses. Durability and use depend on the weave and finish. For example, damask weaves are formal; canvas weaves such as duck and sailcloth are more casual and durable.
• Cotton Blend - Depending on the weave, cotton blends tend to be sturdy, family-friendly fabrics. For everyday use, it’s a good idea to apply a stain-resistant finish.
• Leather - Perhaps the best all-around upholstery fabric ever! This tough material comes in many colors and finishes, and develops more character and softness with age. Very forgiving and easy to clean.
• Linen - A great, fresh look. Best suited for formal living rooms or adult areas because it soils and wrinkles easily. While it won't withstand heavy wear, linen does resist pilling and fading. Must be professionally cleaned to avoid shrinking.
• Silk - This beautiful, delicate fabric is only suitable for formal areas. Must be professionally cleaned if soiled.
• Wool - Sturdy and durable, wool and wool blends offer good resistance to pilling, fading, wrinkling, and soil. Generally, wool is blended with a synthetic fiber to make it easier to clean. Blends can be spot-cleaned when necessary.

Synthetics

• Acetate - Developed as imitation silk, acetate resists mildew, pilling and shrinking. On the other hand, it offers only fair resistance to soil and tends to wear, wrinkle, and fade in the sun. Not a good choice for furniture that will get tough, everyday use.
• Acrylic - Developed as imitation wool, and resists wear, wrinkling, soiling and fading. Low-quality acrylic may tend to pill excessively in high-wear situations. Better-quality acrylics are manufactured to resist pilling.
• Microfibre - A term used to describe a new category of upholstery fabrics with a velvety, suede-like surface. Made from ultra fine polyester fibers, Microfibre fabrics are durable and pleasant to the touch. Excellent value, durability and cleanability.
• Nylon - Rarely used alone, nylon is usually blended with other fibers to make it one of the strongest upholstery fabrics. Nylon is very resilient; in a blend, it helps eliminate the crushing of napped fabrics such as velvet. It doesn't readily soil or wrinkle, but it does tend to fade and pill.
• Olefin - A fashionable, durable choice for furniture likely to receive heavy wear.
• Polyester - Rarely used alone in upholstery, polyester is blended with other fibers to add wrinkle resistance, eliminate crushing and reduce fading.
• Rayon - Developed as an imitation silk, linen and cotton. Rayon is durable, but can be prone to wrinkling. Recent advances have made high-quality rayon very practical for upholstery.
• Vinyl - Easy to care for and less expensive than leather, vinyl is a practical choice for busy family rooms and children’s furniture.

A Word About Fabric Grades

As you’re out shopping, you may find yourself faced with a choice of fabric grades. Grades typically range from “A” on the less expensive end, to “F” on the pricey side. Grades vary from one upholstery manufacturer to another, and are based on variables like intricacy of the weave, fiber content, construction, and performance characteristics – all factors that affect the wholesale cost.

But it’s important to note that grade is NOT an indication of quality or durability.

It’s just an indicator of how expensive the fabric was to make. The trick is to read the details on the fabric card attached to the swatch and to make your decision accordingly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between 'natural' and 'synthetic' fabrics?

A: Natural fabric refers to fabrics made from fibers found in nature. Natural fibers come from animal and vegetable sources. Synthetic fabric refers to fabric made from manufactured fibers, fibers created by scientists.

Q: Which is better, natural or synthetic fabric?

A: Both types of fabric have their advantages and disadvantages. Synthetics can be durable, easy-care, and fade-resistant, but that does not mean that natural fibers are weaker, less durable, prone to fading, and higher-maintenance. These characteristics often depend on more than the type of fiber being used. Durability, for instance, often depends on the weave and finish of a fabric. Cotton fabric can be delicate and sheer, like batiste, or heavy and durable like a denim or tapestry.

Q: But aren't synthetic fabrics less expensive than natural fabrics?

A: Not necessarily. Cost is not determined by fiber content alone. Some synthetics are very expensive and so are some natural fabrics, and vice versa. Other factors such as fabric design, quality of fiber and manufacturing, exclusivity and type of fabric contribute to the cost of a fabric.

Q: Fiber. Fabric. It gets confusing? Is cotton or nylon a fabric or a fiber?

A: The answer is both. I’m afraid that isn’t much help, and at the risk of making things even more confusing, let me say that a FIBER is the material a FABRIC is made from. Cotton fabric refers to any fabric made from cotton fibers. Cotton fabrics, like many others, come in different TYPES of fabrics, such as chintz, denim, damask, etc. But these types of fabric also come in other fibers, both natural and artificial. Our Glossary of Decorating Fabric Types provides more information that may be helpful to you. We will be adding a link to that guide in a few days, as soon as we have it posted.

Q: Aren’t synthetics easier to maintain?

A: Not always. Acrylic and polyester fabrics, for example, are harder to clean than wool and acrylics and acrylic and other synthetics can pill. Stick to the manufacturer’s instructions for the care of any fabric. Do not assume that just because a fabric contains, for example, cotton and polyester, that it is machine washable and dryable. There are other factors as well, such as type of fabric, type of dyes used, etc.

Q: Don’t synthetics eliminate problems with shrinkage and wrinkles?

A: Again, it depends. Rayon, for example, absorbs humidity and shrinks under hot, humid conditions. Windows hung with rayon curtains will have shorter curtains in the hot, humid summer and the same curtains will hang longer in dryer, cooler winters. Some synthetics, like acetate, do resist wrinkles, but so do some fabrics made from natural fibers, like wool and silk. There is a vast difference among synthetic fibers, just as in the naturals. Wool is a very different fiber than silk. So, too, rayon differs from acrylic and olefin.

Q: So how do I choose?

A: Sometimes you will decide in favor of the fabric that has the right look for your décor regardless of other factors. Other times your primary concern may be durability and practicality. You do not always have to choose one type of fiber over another. For some applications, the “best” solution is a fabric that blends the best characteristics of one or more natural and/or synthetics. For example, in upholstery fabrics, the breathability of natural fibers, or how well they allow air to circulate, enhances the comfort of the furniture. To add durability, one or more natural fibers are often blended with synthetics, so you get the best of both types of fibers in one fabric.

Care and Maintenance

• Before you try to remove a stain or soil from your upholstery, you should determine the type of fabric involved. (You'll find While you can't anticipate the guest who will spill his or her beverage or the child who will drip ice cream on your living room sofa, there are some basic upholstery care tips that will keep your furniture looking new longer:
• Vacuum your upholstered furniture weekly, using a furniture brush and the extension that enables you to reach into corners for crumbs and dust.
• Direct sunlight will fade your upholstery, so keep the furniture out of the direct rays.
• Rearrange the furniture in your room from time to time, so that constant use won't wear out one piece of furniture much more quickly than the others in the room.
• To aid in the retention of cushions, both seats and back, rotate and plump them frequently. This will distribute normal wear evenly on both sides of the cushions and the fabric and it will reduce flattening of the fibers.
• Caution, never remove the cushion covers for washing or dry cleaning. The zippers are there to put the cushions inside the covers during manufacturing. Washing or Dry Cleaning the covers will cause them to shrink or stretch and you will not be able to put them back on.

Cleaning Codes

Many people don’t realize that their furniture can have a longer life if they follow some very simple cleaning guidelines. With the proper care, your furniture can last longer, provide comfort, and enjoy a richer, healthy-looking appearance.

Following the Fabric Cleaning Codes is the best way to help minimize fabric wear and keep both old and newer furniture looking its best.

• Code "W" Water-Based Cleaner

  To prevent dirt build-up, clean your furniture using a vacuum or light brush. To clean stains, use the foam only from a water-based cleaning agent such as a mild detergent or non-solvent upholstery shampoo. Use sparingly and avoid overwetting.Be sure to apply the foam with a soft brush or a white towel in a circular pattern and vacuum the area when dry. Try pre-testing a small area before proceeding. If you cannot remove the soiling or stain, be sure to use a professional furniture cleaning service.

• Code “S” Solvent Cleaner

  To prevent dirt build-up, clean your furniture using a vacuum or light brush. To clean stains, always use a mild water-free solvent or dry cleaning product. Be sure to clean the furniture in a well-ventilated room and avoid any products containing toxic materials. Be sure to pre-test a small area before cleaning the entire surface. If problems result, contact a professional furniture cleaning service.

• Code “WS” Water/Solvent Cleaners

  To prevent dirt build-up, clean your furniture using a vacuum or light brush. To clean stains, be sure to use a mild solvent, an upholstery shampoo or the foam from a mild detergent. When using a solvent or dry cleaning product, always follow the instructions, clean only in a well-ventilated room and avoid any products containing toxic materials. Again, be sure to pre-test a small area before cleaning the entire surface and contact a professional furniture cleaning service if a stain persists.

• Code “X” Vacuum Only

  This fabric should be cleaned using a vacuum or light brush only. Water-based foam cleaners or solvent-based cleaning agents may cause excessive shrinking, staining or other damage and should always be avoided.

Professional furniture specialists have developed these guidelines. However, there is no guarantee these tips will always be successful so use them at your own discretion. When in doubt consult a professional cleaning service. It is extremely important to pre-test your cleaning method on a hidden area of the fabric to determine if the colors bleed or if the fabric shrinks. When in doubt, seek the help of professional furniture cleaner.

Know Your Leather: Understand what you're paying for when buying leather

Leather furniture is available at surprisingly low prices today. However, skin and dye qualities can vary greatly. Aniline-dyed leather is superior to surface-dyed leather. The latter is sometimes called "painted" leather because the dye only coats the surface while the former penetrates the skin and is visible on the back. The label will tell you the care needed; if not, seek professional advice. Here are some leather terms you should know.

• Split Leather

  When a cow's hide is doubled in size by slicing it in half along its thickness, it results in two layers of equal thickness but not equal quality. The "split leather" is the bottom half of the hide which has no grain. During the finishing process the hides are corrected. The correction is done by buffing or lightly sanding the hide and then embossing a grain onto it. Embossing is the process of putting an artificial grain into the surface of the leather to imitate a high-quality full-grain leather. Then they are died with either a pigmented finish or an aniline finish.

• Top-grain

  The upper layer of a hide that has been split is the superior top-grain. The reason top grain is more expensive is that its harder to find hides without a lot of blemishes (tick bites, barbwire marks, scars).

• Full-grain

  This unsplit leather shows a natural (not embossed) grain.

Leather Care and Maintenance

• Remember that leather is a natural product and requires some care to maintain the natural beauty of the hide.
• Avoid placing leather furniture in direct sunlight (under windows or skylights). All materials will fade over time when placed in direct sunlight. Some leathers are especially sensitive to sunlight.
• Maintain at least two feet between your furniture and heat sources. Prolonged exposure to heat vents and radiators will cause your leather to dry out. Make sure the air in your home is humidified during the cold winter months.
• Retain the softness and attractive appearance of your leather. Treat with Leather Cleaner and Conditioner 2 to 4 times a year as required. Do not uses leather conditioners or cleaners for Bycast, Nubuck and some Natural leathers. See your Furniture Dealer for these products and ask about other Protection Plans that can extend the life and enjoyment you will get out of your leather furniture.
• Always try any cleaning method in a hidden area first to convince yourself of the results.
• Vacuum leather furniture regularly with the crevice upholstery attachment of your machine. An artist's brush is handy for lifting durst from tufted areas and pleats. Give the leather an occasional wipe with a soft, clean cloth dampened with warm distilled water to retard the buildup of body oils on the surface especially the arms and head rests. There, the leather is exposed to hand-sweat and oily hair.
• Do not use cleaning solvents, furniture polish, oils, varnish, abrasive cleaners, detergent soaps, or ammonia water on leather.
• Take care of spills immediately with a clean white cloth and distilled water blot, don’t press, the spill.
• Do not use soap or soak the stain heavily with water. This may cause more damage than the stain.
• For butter, oil, or grease stains, wipe off excess with a clean white cloth and leave alone as the spot should dissipate into the leather after a short period of time.
• If a stain persists, it is recommended that a professional leather specialist clean the leather to avoid any potential damage to the leather itself.

Misconceptions and Concerns About Leather

• Leather is hot in the summer and cold in the winter

  Leather breathes because of its fibrous structure. This makes it unique to all other man-made products. Leather will adjust itself to a person’s body temperature within minutes of seating. That is why you don’t perspire when seated on leather as you do in vinyl.

• I have kids and pets leather is not a good choice for me.

  A good leather sofa can last you up to seven times longer than most fabric sofas. There are a few things to consider if you have kids or pets. Do you want something with superior cleanability, then a protected leather is best for you. However if you want a Natural leather you have to understand Natural leather will patina from use and spills. Water based spills can be wiped off easily if done in a timely manor. Natural leather can be cleaned with a mild soap and distilled water. Surface scratches can usually be massaged lightly with distilled water and worked out. Leather is more resistant to animals than fabrics as leather does not absorb animal smells and cannot be penetrated by animal hair. Leather, unlike cloth and other woven fabrics, may be repaired and restore if damaged by a pet or child.

• Will my leather be exactly as shown in the showroom?

  You can be sure the quality design and construction will be the same as you see in the showroom. As far as the leather, this might not be the case. “All Leather Is Unique”. No grain pattern is identical to another. No fiber structure in a hide is equal. This means that the colour used for dyeing the leather penetrates unequally into the leather. The colour is more or less equal for a lot produced at a time. With a new lot it is possible that a slight colour difference will appear. This colour difference may be more noticed when a customer orders, for example an ottoman, as a complement to a group bought a year before. Each leather hide also varies based on how the cow lived its life on the range. Scars, barbed wire marks, and differing grain patterns make each leather hide “one of a kind”.